Veli Varoš

Local Croatian neighborhood with traditional architecture and affordable dining, minutes uphill from the Old Town. Safe residential area. Good for people wanting authentic neighborhood life close to the center. Involves uphill walking.

Veli Varoš is a fishermen's neighborhood that stayed local while the Old Town turned touristy. It's just minutes from the palace. Cobblestone streets wind uphill on Marjan Hill's southern slope, with traditional Dalmatian stone houses dating back centuries. You see actual Croatian daily life - locals at corner stores, elderly people on doorsteps, kids going to school. No tour groups here. The area sits between Republic Square and Marjan Hill, so you can reach both the city center and hiking trails easily. Streets climb steeply in parts, but you get views over Split and the islands of Brač and Šolta. The dining scene is strong - taverns like Fife, Otprilike Ovako, and Cicibela serve traditional Croatian food. Articok does modern versions. Prices are cheaper than Old Town tourist spots. English is less common than in the palace, but restaurant staff at popular places can help. The residential character means it quiets down after 10 PM when locals go inside. Safe to walk around any time - working neighborhood where people know each other. About 8 minutes walk to the center. Main issue is the uphill walking, which can wear you out in summer heat.