Spanish Quarter (Quartieri Spagnoli)

The Spanish Quarter is the grittiest, most local part of Naples with good cheap street food. It's been improving but still has safety concerns at night. Go during the day, then leave.

The Spanish Quarter is the grittiest part of Naples. Narrow streets run up the hillside from Via Toledo - these were built in the 16th century to house Spanish troops. Laundry hangs between buildings, apartment doors open to the street, you smell ragù cooking from multiple kitchens. During the day there's street art, tiny Maradona shrines, old women chatting on chairs outside, and good cheap street food at Pignasecca market. The cuoppo fritto (fried food in a paper cone) and portafoglio pizza are great and inexpensive. It's been gentrifying and draws tourists now, so it's not as rough as it used to be. But visit during the day. The streets are very narrow and poorly lit. Even locals say it's fine by day but take a taxi at night. Don't bring valuables, keep your phone hidden, stick to busier streets. Worth seeing for the atmosphere and food, just leave before dark.