Beirut, Lebanon

• Beirut sits on the Mediterranean coast. Some neighborhoods - Gemmayzeh, Mar Mikhael - do have the sidewalk cafes and nightlife that earn the 'Paris of the Middle East' nickname. You'll see women in hijabs and women in cocktail dresses on the same street, and both are normal here.
• People here are genuinely hospitable. Locals will invite you to join their table, argue about where to find the best hummus, and make sure you're getting around safely. English is common in central Beirut, especially around the American University in Hamra. A few Arabic greetings help but aren't essential.
• Downtown Solidere was completely rebuilt after the civil war with designer shops and upscale restaurants charging international prices. For cheaper, more authentic eating, try Hamra for student spots or Gemmayzeh/Mar Mikhael for the bar and restaurant scene.
• Security is visible in central Beirut - checkpoints and tourist police who speak English. Avoid the southern suburbs (Dahieh) entirely, and stay away from the Syrian or Israeli borders. The port explosion damaged parts of the city, and you may still see reconstruction work in places.

Arabic is the main language, but English is widely spoken in Beirut, especially in areas like Hamra, Gemmayzeh, Mar Mikhael, and Downtown. French is also common among older generations and in upscale areas. Tourist Police (1717) have English-speaking operators. In touristy neighborhoods, most restaurant and hotel staff speak English. Basic Arabic phrases are appreciated but not essential in central Beirut.

• Beirut is fairly liberal for the Middle East. You can wear sleeveless tops, shorts, and dresses in the city without problems. Cover shoulders and knees for mosques or more traditional areas. Churches don't require headscarves but dress respectfully.
• Say 'Marhaba' (hello) when entering shops or taxis. If someone offers coffee or tea, accept even if you just take a sip - refusing can come across as rude. People here are actually hospitable, not just trying to sell you things.
• Don't bring up politics, religion, or the civil war unless locals mention it first. These are sensitive topics. Also don't photograph military checkpoints, government buildings, or security personnel.
• People eat late. Lunch runs 12-3pm, dinner starts around 8pm or later. Restaurants in Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael don't get busy until after 9pm. Tip 10-15% at restaurants, but it's not expected for coffee or quick service.
• Christians and Muslims live side-by-side here. You'll hear church bells and the call to prayer in the same neighborhood. Friday is Muslim prayer day, Sunday is Christian, but most businesses stay open throughout the week.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Police Operations: 112. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• Public buses run 7 lines (B1-B7) connecting most areas for around $1 per ride. White minibuses are private, follow fixed routes, and cost around 4,000-5,000 LBP depending on distance. You can flag them down anywhere.
• Service taxis ('servees') are shared - driver picks up multiple passengers along the route. Main form of public transport, should cost max 5,000 LBP in central Beirut. Make sure you say 'service' or they'll charge private taxi rates.
• Uber and Careem operate here and are safer than random taxis, especially at night or if you don't speak Arabic. Use these for evening rides instead of walking through empty areas.
• Walking works in Hamra, Gemmayzeh, Mar Mikhael, and Downtown during the day. Sidewalks are uneven or missing though, and traffic is chaotic. This isn't a walking city like European capitals.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Beirut with local guides and curated experiences.