Kasbah

The upscale part of the old city with better restaurants, Gibraltar views, and fixed-up riads. Feels safer and more polished than the medina below, though you should still skip the exterior walls after dark.

The Kasbah is the fortified area at the top of the medina, behind the old ramparts that used to protect the city's rulers. It's become the upscale part of the old city - restored riads, pricier restaurants, and boutique shops along steep cobblestone streets. The 17th century Dar-el-Makhzen palace is now a museum. Wealthy Moroccans and expats have put money into fixing up old buildings here. You'll see artists with small galleries, tourists taking photos of the Strait of Gibraltar views, people drinking mint tea at cafes in the ramparts. It's quieter and more polished than the medina below. Police are around and it feels secure, though the narrow streets are still confusing even with GPS. Restaurants and shops stay open after dark and it feels safer than the lower medina at night. Still, skip the exterior walls after dark - not because it's dangerous but because the lighting is bad and fewer people are around.