Albaicín

The most scenic part of Granada with Moorish architecture and Alhambra views. Go during the day when it's busy. At night, the dark narrow streets in the residential areas aren't worth the risk - take the minibus instead.

Albaicín is the old Moorish quarter on the hillside facing the Alhambra - narrow white-washed streets, UNESCO World Heritage site, the whole deal. During the day it's packed with tourists hiking up to Mirador de San Nicolás for the viewpoint photo. You'll also see actual residents - laundry hanging from windows, kids in the small plazas, elderly people on benches. The Moorish tea rooms on Calle Calderería Nueva give you a break from climbing hills in the heat. Placeta de San Miguel Bajo and similar small squares have restaurant terraces with Alhambra views. Plenty of people eat alone at the cafes with books or laptops. The problem is nighttime - the deeper parts of Albaicín get dark and empty after sunset. The narrow streets feel isolated. Stay on main routes with lighting in the evening, or just take one of the small red minibuses back down to Plaza Nueva instead of walking alone through dark alleys.