Old City (Icherisheher)

The obvious starting point - it's where the main sights are. Compact enough to see in a morning. Food costs more here than elsewhere but the settings are nice. Wear flat shoes for the uneven stones. Fine to walk around after dark on the main paths.

The walled Old City is the main tourist draw - narrow stone alleys, the Maiden Tower, carpet shops, and restaurants in old caravanserais. It's small enough to walk around in an hour or two. Gets crowded with tour groups during the day, especially around the Maiden Tower. Tourist police are around if you need them. The restaurants inside the walls are pricier than outside but the courtyard settings are nice for a meal. Most places here speak English. After dark it empties out and gets quiet - stick to the lit main paths rather than wandering into the residential alleys.