Baku, Azerbaijan

• Baku sits on the Caspian Sea with a walled old town and some dramatic modern buildings - the Flame Towers are hard to miss. The contrast is striking: medieval stone streets next to glass skyscrapers. The waterfront promenade runs about 16km if you want to walk or rent a bike.
• Azerbaijan is secular despite being Muslim-majority. You'll see women in everything from hijabs to miniskirts, and alcohol is sold everywhere. Eating alone draws zero attention in the tourist areas. English works fine at hotels and restaurants in the center but drops off quickly elsewhere - have a translation app ready.
• Safety is decent. There's visible police presence and cameras throughout the center. The main annoyances are pushy taxi drivers at the airport and occasional overcharging - use Bolt or the 189taxi app instead of hailing cabs. Street crime is low but not nonexistent.
• The wind off the Caspian gets cold even in summer - Baku literally means 'city of winds' - so bring a jacket. The metro works well and has bag checks at every station. Crossing streets requires patience; drivers don't yield to pedestrians even at marked crossings.

Azerbaijani is the main language, Russian is widely spoken too. English works in hotels and tourist restaurants but not much elsewhere. Tourist police (126) might have English speakers. Get a translation app and learn 'salam' (hello), 'sag ol' (thanks), 'beli' (yes), 'xeyr' (no).

• Dress how you want in central Baku - it's relaxed. Shorts and tank tops are fine. For mosques, cover shoulders and knees; keep a scarf in your bag.
• Don't bring up Armenia or the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict. It's a sensitive topic and people have strong feelings about it.
• Carry your passport or a copy - random checks happen occasionally. Cards work in tourist areas; bring cash for markets and small shops. Tipping 10% is appreciated but nobody will chase you down if you don't.

• The metro covers the main areas and costs almost nothing. Get a BakiKart (2 AZN) and load it up - works on buses too. Every station has bag checks, which slows things down a bit.
• Use Bolt or the 189taxi app. Street taxis, especially at the airport, will try to overcharge. The apps show the price upfront so there's no haggling.
• The center is walkable but the Old City cobblestones are rough on anything except flat shoes. Crossing streets is a learned skill - drivers don't stop for pedestrians, so wait for gaps.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.
• For peace of mind on arrival, book your airport pickup in advance.

Explore Baku with local guides and curated experiences.