Thessaloniki, Greece

• Thessaloniki is Greece's second city, sitting on the Thermaic Gulf with water views and Mount Olympus visible on clear days. History is layered everywhere - Roman ruins next to Byzantine churches, Ottoman buildings housing modern cafes. The waterfront promenade (Nea Paralia) runs 4.5 kilometers and gets used heavily by joggers, families, and people nursing coffees into the evening.
• Greeks take coffee seriously here. You'll see people sitting alone for hours with a book or laptop, and no one rushes you. Eating alone is common, particularly around Navarinou Square and the waterfront. The university population keeps things young and creates a bohemian atmosphere in parts of the city.
• Tourist areas, hotels, and upscale places have English speakers, but basic Greek phrases help in local spots. The Tourist Police (171) operate in English. The new metro has platform screen doors and driverless trains. Main safety issue is pickpocketing around Aristotelous Square and markets.
• The center stays active late with decent street lighting in areas like Valaoritou and Ladadika. Skip the area west of center near Bardaris and the Dendropotamos neighborhood entirely. LGBTQ venues cluster in Ladadika and Valaoritou.

Greek is the main language. Tourist police (171), major hotels, tourist restaurants, and upscale places have English. Emergency service (112) operates in English. You'll need basic Greek phrases in local areas and traditional neighborhoods.

• Greeks dress more fashionably than in some other European cities - smart casual works for most places. Cover shoulders and knees for churches and monasteries.
• English is limited outside tourist spots and upscale places. Learn basics: 'yassas' (hello), 'efcharisto' (thank you), 'parakalo' (please), 'signomi' (excuse me). Google Translate comes in handy.
• Coffee and meals take time here - people sit for 2-3 hours without anyone rushing them. Sitting alone with coffee for hours is normal. Tip 5% on large bills or €1 on smaller ones.
• Don't flush toilet paper in many places - older plumbing can't handle it, so bins are provided. Cover swimsuits before going into shops or restaurants.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. European Emergency Number: 112. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• The metro has driverless trains and platform screen doors. It connects major areas and shares a ticket system with buses - single tickets work on both, which makes it the cheapest option.
• Buses run frequently and cover the whole city. When the metro closes for maintenance, special bus routes replace it every 7 minutes. Watch for pickpockets on crowded buses during rush hour.
• Official taxis work fine - check the meter is running or agree on a price upfront. Uber and local ride-sharing apps operate here. Skip unmarked cars or drivers claiming broken meters who want a flat fee.
• The waterfront promenade has 4.5km of smooth paths good for walking or biking. City center around Aristotelous Square is walkable day and evening. Central areas have decent lighting, but stick to main streets after dark.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Thessaloniki with local guides and curated experiences.