Ano Poli (Upper Town)

Ano Poli is the historic upper town with Byzantine architecture, traditional tavernas, and city views. Safe during the day, poorly lit and isolated at night. Go for the history and views, leave before sunset.

Ano Poli is on the hillside above the modern city. This part survived the 1917 fire, so the Byzantine and Ottoman architecture is original - wooden balconies, stone walls, Byzantine churches in narrow cobblestone streets. The elevation gives you views of the city, gulf, and Mount Olympus on clear days. Traditional tavernas charge local prices instead of tourist prices. During the day it's fine - families going about their business, old people chatting on doorsteps, tourists checking out the historic sites. Churches, narrow streets, traditional tavernas work for lunch. The problem is after dark. Once the sun goes down, lighting is poor and the narrow streets feel isolated. Locals from other parts of the city avoid it at night. The maze-like layout makes it easy to get lost, and empty streets mean no one around if there's trouble. Go during the day for the history and views, but leave before sunset. The walk up from the center is steep - consider a taxi if that's an issue.