São Paulo, Brazil

• São Paulo has 12 million people and sprawls across neighborhoods that feel like different cities - Vila Madalena with its graffiti and art scene, wealthy Jardins with designer stores, busy Paulista Avenue lined with office towers. The size can be overwhelming at first. Unlike Rio, there's no beach culture here, just work culture - everyone's in a rush, and the city doesn't slow down until late.
• Because so many people work long hours, eating alone is normal. You'll see people reading or on laptops at cafes without it looking strange. English is uncommon outside of upscale areas and tourist spots. You'll need Portuguese or Google Translate for most places.
• Crime has dropped - São Paulo's homicide rate is much lower than it used to be. But petty theft, especially pickpocketing on public transport, remains common. Keep your phone in a closed bag on the metro and buses. Don't wear expensive jewelry or watches. The city has clear safe zones and rough areas - know which is which.
• You'll need Uber or the metro. The metro is clean and efficient during off-peak hours, packed and risky during rush hour. Six lines cover most areas tourists visit, running 4:40 AM to midnight (1 AM Saturdays). After dark, take Uber rather than walking or using public transport.

Portuguese is the main language. English is uncommon outside upscale hotels, restaurants, and tourist areas. Tourist Police (DEATUR) at 011-3120-4447 can help in multiple languages. Emergency services at 190 may have limited English. Have a translation app ready.

• Paulistanos dress more formally than other Brazilian cities - polished casual, not beach casual. Upscale neighborhoods like Jardins and Itaim Bibi have dress codes: no shorts, flip-flops, or athletic wear at restaurants and clubs. Vila Madalena is more relaxed.
• Street harassment and catcalling are common, especially in crowded areas and on public transport. A 2013 survey found 99.6% of women experienced it. Ignore rather than respond. Stick to well-lit areas with other people around.
• Few people speak English outside of hotels, upscale restaurants, and business areas. Learn basic Portuguese for ordering food, asking directions, and dealing with taxis. Brazilians appreciate attempts at their language even with bad pronunciation.
• Meals are late - lunch noon to 2 PM, dinner after 8 PM. Many restaurants don't open until 7 PM. Brazilians can be warm and friendly once you get past initial reserve. Physical contact like touching arms during conversation is normal, not invasive.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Police: 190. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• The metro has 6 lines, 65 stations, runs 4:40 AM to midnight (1 AM Saturdays). It's fast and clean. Reasonably safe during daylight but watch for pickpockets during rush hour when it gets packed. Single rides cost around R$5.
• Uber and 99 Taxi work throughout the city and are safer than public transport, especially at night. Rides are cheap - R$15-30 for most trips between central neighborhoods. Check that the license plate matches your app before getting in.
• CPTM commuter trains connect the greater São Paulo area but aren't useful for tourists. Buses go everywhere but require Portuguese to navigate. On Sundays, Paulista Avenue closes to cars and becomes pedestrian-only.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore São Paulo with local guides and curated experiences.