Erbil, Iraq

• Erbil is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, which has been more stable than the rest of Iraq for years. The 7,000-year-old Citadel sits in the center, with modern malls and traditional bazaars around it. The Kurdistan Region operates separately from federal Iraq with its own security forces, which is why it's safer.
• You need to dress conservatively everywhere - shoulders, chest, and legs covered. In the Ankawa district and English Village, you can get away with jeans and less coverage, but everywhere else requires full modest dress. A headscarf helps in traditional areas. People are generally welcoming to foreigners, though you'll get stares.
• Almost no one speaks English outside hotels and the Ankawa area. Learn a few Kurdish words (Choni for hello, Spas for thank you) or keep Google Translate ready. Emergency services: 112 or 122 for ambulance. The U.S. Consulate is at +964-66-211-4000.
• Use Careem (like Uber) for getting around - it's more reliable than random taxis. Ankawa and the Sami Abdulrahman Park area have decent lighting and stay active in the evenings, so those are your best options if you're out after dark.

Kurdish (Sorani and Kurmanji dialects) and Arabic are what people speak. English is only common in hotels, international restaurants, and Ankawa. The U.S. Consulate (+964-66-211-4000) has English speakers. Emergency services (112/911) have some English operators. Tourist vendors near the Citadel might know basic English.

• Cover up - long sleeves, long pants or skirts, loose clothing. Ankawa lets you wear jeans and normal tops, but everywhere else needs full modest dress. Bring a lightweight scarf for your head when you visit mosques or go to very traditional areas.
• Don't touch men unless they offer a handshake first. Being too friendly can be misread. Gender segregation is normal here - separate lines, separate seating sections, that kind of thing.
• Almost nobody speaks English outside tourist spots and Ankawa. Learn Choni (hello), Spas (thank you), Baш (good) in Kurdish. Keep Google Translate open.
• Don't photograph people without asking, especially women. Government buildings, military stuff, checkpoints - don't photograph those either. The Citadel and markets are usually okay for photos.

• Use Careem (Middle Eastern Uber) - it's reliable and prices are reasonable. Bolt works here too but has less coverage.
• Regular taxis are cheap (around 5,000 IQD for short trips) but you need to negotiate the price before getting in since there are no meters. Light tan taxis are government-certified, orange-and-white are private. Both work fine.
• Public buses aren't worth the hassle - routes aren't clear, schedules are unreliable, and everything's in Kurdish/Arabic. Just use Careem or taxis.
• You can walk around Ankawa and similar areas during the day, but summer heat (40°C+) will drain you fast. Bring water and know where the air-conditioned spots are.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.
• For peace of mind on arrival, book your airport pickup in advance.

Explore Erbil with local guides and curated experiences.