Marseille, France

• Marseille is France's oldest city and second-largest, a Mediterranean port with 26 centuries of history. It has a split personality - touristy areas around the Vieux Port are reasonably safe and policed during the day, while the northern arrondissements (13th-16th) have serious crime problems and you should just avoid them. The central and southern districts are where you'll actually want to spend time.
• The café culture here means sitting alone with a book or laptop is normal. English works in tourist zones and wealthier neighborhoods (6th-8th arrondissements), but you'll want basic French phrases elsewhere. Marseillais are generally friendlier about language mistakes than Parisians, but greeting people properly matters to them.
• RTM runs the metro, trams, and buses - the system works fine but pickpocketing is an issue, especially on metro lines and at the main train station. Don't use your phone on the metro, keep bags in front of you. After dark, take Uber or official taxis instead of public transport. Some beaches have a harassment reporting app called SAFER Plage from May to September.
• Day-night contrast is sharper here than in most French cities. Cours Julien and Le Panier get quiet fast after sunset. Coastal neighborhoods in the 7th and 8th stay active longer with families and better lighting. Plan around this - what feels fine at 3pm might feel sketchy by 9pm.

French is the main language. English works in tourist areas, hotels, and nicer restaurants in the 6th-8th arrondissements. Emergency number 112 has English-speaking operators. Basic French phrases like 'Bonjour', 'Merci', 'Pardon' help - Marseillais are friendlier about mistakes than Parisians if you try.

• Say 'Bonjour' when you walk into shops, cafes, or restaurants - Marseillais actually care about this. Switch to 'Bonsoir' after 6pm. People here are generally friendlier about language mistakes than in Paris, but you still need to try.
• Dinner starts around 7pm here, earlier than the 8-9pm Paris timing. Lunch runs 12-2pm and most places close between services. Service charge is included in bills, but rounding up or adding 5-10% for good service is normal.
• Dress is more casual than Paris - tank tops and shorts are fine in summer. Cover up for churches and Notre-Dame de la Garde. Beach clubs and nicer restaurants expect smart casual. Don't touch produce at markets unless you ask first.
• Marseille has heavy North African influence from its port history. You'll hear Arabic and Provençal-accented French, and see cultural mixing everywhere. This diversity is part of what the city is - don't come expecting postcard-perfect France.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. European Emergency Number: 112. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• RTM runs 2 metro lines, 3 tram lines, and about 80 bus routes. Single tickets cost around €1.70 and work for 60 minutes on any mode. The metro is quick but crowded during rush hour, and pickpocketing happens regularly - keep your bag in front and valuables out of sight.
• Uber works well and is safer than flagging down random taxis, especially at night. Official taxis have meters but some drivers overcharge tourists by taking longer routes or claiming the meter's broken. Insist on the meter or agree on a price before you start.
• Walking is fine in tourist areas during the day. The Corniche Kennedy coastal road has good views. Cours Julien to Vieux Port is about 15 minutes on foot. After 10pm, stick to main streets with good lighting or just take Uber - the day-night safety difference is real here.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Marseille with local guides and curated experiences.