Cuenca, Ecuador

• Cuenca is Ecuador's third-largest city, sitting at 8,400 feet in the southern highlands. The historic center has cobblestone streets and colonial buildings including the blue-domed cathedral. UNESCO heritage status keeps development restricted in the old town. The altitude will leave you winded for the first couple days - expect to move slower than usual. Temperature stays between 50-70°F year-round.
• About 5,000 English-speaking expats live here, so you'll find cafes where people work on laptops for hours without anyone caring. The coffee shop scene is genuinely good, not just tourist traps. Restaurants range from cheap local places to international options - prices are low compared to North America but quality varies.
• Tourist Police patrol the center and some speak English. The ECU 911 emergency system has multilingual operators. Pickpocketing happens in crowded areas like any city. Violent crime is rare but not unheard of. El Centro and El Barranco have decent lighting and regular police at night, though things quiet down after 10pm.
• Buses cost $0.30 but get packed and pickpockets work them during rush hour. Most people who can afford it use taxis ($2-5) instead. The historic center is small enough to walk across in 20 minutes, altitude permitting. A 3-mile path follows the Tomebamba River through town.

Spanish is the main language. Tourist areas, upscale hotels, Gringolandia cafes, and the expat community speak English. Some Tourist Police speak English. ECU 911 emergency system has multilingual support including English through their app.

• Cuenca is more conservative than Quito or the coast. Business casual works better than athletic wear or tank tops. People notice how you dress, particularly officials and church staff. Shorts and flip-flops mark you as a tourist.
• English works in tourist spots and with expats, but you'll need basic Spanish for buses, markets, and cheaper restaurants. The expat population means you can usually find help in English when stuck.
• Say 'buenos días' or 'buenas tardes' when entering shops or restaurants - it's expected. Highland culture here is formal compared to other parts of Ecuador. Ask before photographing indigenous women in traditional dress. If they agree, a tip of $0.50-1 is standard.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. ECU 911 (police, ambulance, fire): 911. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• Buses cost $0.30 and go most places but get jammed during rush hour. Pickpockets work crowded buses. A lot of travelers skip buses at night and taxi instead.
• Taxis run $2-5 for most rides and have security cameras and panic buttons. Get one with a working meter or call through your hotel instead of flagging random ones on the street, especially after dark. No Uber or similar apps operate here.
• The historic center is small - most things are within a 20-minute walk. The altitude will slow you down though, so don't expect your normal pace. The Tomebamba River has walking paths that are fine during the day, but stick to shorter walks after dark.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Cuenca with local guides and curated experiences.