Chefchaouen, Morocco

• Chefchaouen is a small mountain town in the Rif Mountains where most buildings in the old town are painted blue. Yes, it's as photogenic as the Instagram photos suggest, which means it gets crowded during peak season. The town is much calmer than Marrakech or Fez - you can actually wander around without constant hassle.
• Crime rates are low here. Violent crime and theft aren't really issues, though you should still watch your bag in crowded market areas like anywhere else. Street harassment happens less frequently than in Morocco's bigger cities, probably because of the smaller size and mountain atmosphere.
• People speak Spanish here because of the proximity to Spain, plus French and some English in tourist spots. The old town is small - you can walk across it in 20 minutes, though the cobblestone streets and alleys will keep you wandering longer.
• Police patrol around the main square regularly. Things shut down early compared to other Moroccan cities - most places close by 10pm. One thing to know: Chefchaouen is in the middle of Morocco's marijuana-growing region, so you'll get approached by dealers. Just say no thanks - it's all illegal regardless of how openly it's cultivated.

Arabic and Spanish are the main languages. French is common, and you'll find English in tourist areas and among younger people. Emergency services (19) have some English-speaking operators. Basic Arabic or Spanish phrases help.

• Cover your shoulders, chest, and knees. Loose pants or long skirts work. You don't need a headscarf unless visiting a mosque. Local women dress more conservatively than in European cities, and how you dress does affect how you're treated.
• Spanish is common here along with French and Arabic. Tourist areas have English speakers. A few Arabic phrases help - 'salam' (hello), 'shukran' (thank you), 'la shukran' (no thank you) - especially for turning down hashish offers.
• Tipping here is a bit different from other Moroccan cities. Around 10-15% at restaurants if service is good. Porters expect at least 50 MAD (not 20 like elsewhere) because of all the hills and stairs. Markets expect haggling - first prices are usually inflated for tourists.
• During Ramadan, don't eat or drink in public during the day. Most restaurants close until evening, then serve special iftar meals when people break the fast.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Police: 19. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• The old town is car-free and walkable - you can cross it in 20 minutes. Cobblestones and hills mean you need decent shoes. Most riads are only accessible on foot, so either pack light or hire someone to carry your bags (expect to tip at least 50 MAD because of the hills and steps).
• CTM buses are the best way to get to other cities - they connect to Tangier (2.5 hours, 75-110 MAD), Fez (4 hours), and elsewhere. Book ahead in peak season (April-June, September-October). The bus station is in the new town, so it's a 20-minute uphill walk or 15-20 MAD taxi to the medina gate.
• Blue petit taxis do short trips within town. Grand taxis (the shared ones to other cities) have a reputation for reckless driving and no seatbelts - probably better to avoid them. Private taxis cost more but are safer. Most places only take cash, so get dirhams from an ATM before going into the medina.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Chefchaouen with local guides and curated experiences.