Fes, Morocco

• Fes has Morocco's oldest university and a medieval medina with about 9,000 narrow alleys. The maze layout was meant to confuse invaders, and it still works - you will get lost, and Google Maps doesn't help much in there. The old medina (Fes el-Bali) is a UNESCO site where donkeys haul goods through passages too narrow for cars.
• The city has three parts that feel completely different. The ancient medina is where the markets and traditional life happen. Fes el-Jdid has the Jewish Quarter and Royal Palace. Ville Nouvelle is the French colonial area with wide streets and cafes - basically a different city from the medieval parts.
• Unwanted attention is common throughout Morocco, but Fes is where you'll notice it most. Expect constant comments, marriage proposals, and offers to help that usually come with some angle. Covering your shoulders and knees helps reduce this but doesn't stop it. After shops close around 9:30 PM, the medina empties out and the lighting is bad, so plan to be somewhere else by then.
• Get an official guide for your first day in the medina - they'll show you how to navigate and what prices should actually be at the markets. Tourist police are around in the main areas and some speak English. You can only walk in the medina itself, but red petit taxis with meters are cheap for getting between the different neighborhoods.

Arabic and French are the main languages. Very little English outside tourist areas and upscale hotels. Emergency services (112) may have some English speakers. Tourist Police and the Tourism Delegation (+212 5 35 62 34 60) can provide assistance in multiple languages.

• Cover your shoulders, chest, and knees - especially in Fes, which is more conservative. Tank tops and shorts mean more staring and harassment. Loose cotton or linen works best in the heat. Bring a scarf for mosques or when you need extra coverage.
• Almost no one speaks English outside tourist restaurants and nicer hotels. Learn a few phrases: 'La shukran' (no thank you), 'Shukran' (thank you), 'Imshi' (go away - say it firmly if you need to). Vendors and fake guides are everywhere. Just say no and keep walking instead of engaging.
• During Ramadan, don't eat, drink, or smoke in public during daylight. Most restaurants close until sunset. Your riad will still give you breakfast somewhere private.
• The constant attention gets tiring. 'Hello beautiful,' marriage proposals, offers to help - it doesn't stop. Most of it's harmless but annoying. Some women wear a fake wedding ring and mention their husband. Ignoring works better than responding.
• Don't touch people or eat with your left hand - it's seen as unclean. Accept tea when it's offered in shops, even if you're not buying anything. You're expected to haggle in markets - start around 30-40% of what they're asking.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Police: 19. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• The medina is pedestrian-only - alleys are too narrow for cars. You're walking, and you're going to get lost. Download offline maps and keep a screenshot of your riad's location. Local kids will offer to guide you for 20-50 dirhams.
• Red petit taxis have meters and they're cheap for getting between the medina, Fes el-Jdid, and Ville Nouvelle. They fit 3 passengers max and only go within city limits. Across town costs 15-30 dirhams ($1.50-$3). White grand taxis are for longer trips outside the city.
• City buses connect Ville Nouvelle to the medina gates. Bus 9 goes from Place Atlas to near Dar Batha Museum, bus 16 runs airport to train station, and bus 19 connects the train station to central Fes el-Bali. Buses get packed and pickpockets know this.
• Uber left Morocco. Use Careem, Roby, Heetch, or InDrive instead. They work fine in Ville Nouvelle but drivers usually can't get into the medina, so you'll meet them at the nearest gate.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Fes with local guides and curated experiences.