Valparaíso, Chile

• Valparaíso is a port city built across 42 hills about 90 minutes from Santiago. Old funiculars from the late 1800s connect the lower port to hillside neighborhoods with painted houses and street art. Cerro Bellavista has a good concentration of murals, including an open-air museum with works from Chilean artists.
• Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción are the main tourist areas where most visitors stay. You'll find hotels, restaurants, and people who speak English here. Police patrol during the day, but crime is a real concern - embassies warn about muggings even in these tourist zones in daylight. Keep to the main streets of these two hills and don't wander into adjoining neighborhoods. The architecture has British influence and the atmosphere is artsy.
• Take Uber to and from the port area rather than walking. Keep your phone and valuables out of sight. Eating alone at cafes is normal in the tourist zones.
• New Year's Eve brings huge crowds for the fireworks show over the bay. Pablo Neruda's house museum La Sebastiana in Cerro Bellavista has good views of the city. Funiculars cost about 100 pesos each way, or you can walk the steep stairs for free.

Spanish is the main language. English is spoken in tourist areas of Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción at hotels, restaurants, and cafes. Tourist police (133) and emergency services (131) may have some English-speaking operators. Outside tourist zones, almost no one speaks English, so you'll need basic Spanish and a translation app.

• Chileans greet friends with a kiss on the right cheek, but business introductions use handshakes. If invited to someone's home, bring wine or flowers. People stand close when talking and may touch your shoulder.
• English is limited outside the tourist areas in Cerro Alegre and Concepción. Learn some basic Spanish and have Google Translate ready. Restaurant staff in tourist zones speak enough English to help, but bus drivers and market vendors usually don't.
• Street art is treated as legitimate art here, not vandalism - don't touch the murals. Tip 10% in restaurants if service isn't included. Most places take cards, but you'll need cash for street vendors and markets.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Police (Carabineros): 133. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• The Merval metro connects Valparaíso with Viña del Mar and other nearby towns. Runs 6:30am-10:30pm weekdays, slightly later weekends. You need a Metroval contactless card from the stations.
• Historic funiculars connect the lower city to the hills for about 100 pesos ($0.11 USD). You can also walk the steep staircases for free. Wear comfortable shoes - Valparaíso is very hilly.
• Local buses are color-coded by route and cost around 400 pesos, cash only. Bus 505 goes to Plaza Sotomayor. Use Uber or registered taxis at night, especially to and from the bus terminal which isn't safe. Request Uber pickups on main streets, not side alleys.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Valparaíso with local guides and curated experiences.