Manama, Bahrain

• Manama is Bahrain's capital and probably the most liberal city in the Gulf - alcohol is legal here and dress codes are more relaxed than in Saudi Arabia or Kuwait. You'll see modern shopping malls next to traditional souqs, which gives it a mix of old and new Middle East.
• Crime is low compared to most capitals. You'll get some stares and occasional catcalls, especially in areas like Juffair, but serious crime against tourists is uncommon. Most people in hotels, malls, and restaurants speak English. A few words of Arabic help in traditional markets.
• The city's layout is straightforward. Adliya (Block 338) has restaurants, bars, and galleries. Seef District is the mall and hotel zone. Juffair is full of American expats and their restaurants. The old Manama Souq is the traditional market - go during the day.
• Buses are cheap but taxis and Uber/Careem are affordable enough that most visitors use them, especially at night. May to September gets brutally hot - 45°C some days - so November to March is better. Cover your shoulders and knees in traditional areas, but regular clothes are fine in malls and hotels.

Arabic is official but English works in hotels, malls, restaurants, and tourist areas. Emergency services (999) have English-speaking operators. Business districts and upscale areas have widespread English. Traditional souqs and residential neighborhoods have less English - a few Arabic phrases help.

• Cover shoulders and knees in public. Tank tops and shorts are fine at hotel pools and private beaches, but wear loose clothes elsewhere. The Al Fateh Grand Mosque requires full coverage including hair - they'll give you an abaya if needed.
• Alcohol is legal for non-Muslims over 18 (21 for drinks over 5% ABV). You can drink in hotel bars and licensed restaurants but not on the street. Public intoxication can get you fined or arrested. Drink-driving laws are strict - don't do it.
• Many shops close for midday prayers on Friday. Restaurants and malls stay open but with shorter hours. During Ramadan, don't eat or drink in public during the day. Hotel restaurants usually serve non-fasting guests in separate areas.
• Use your right hand for eating and handing things to people - left hand is considered unclean. Don't photograph local women without asking. Don't discuss politics or criticize the royal family. A few Arabic words like 'marhaba' (hello) and 'shukran' (thank you) help.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. All Emergency Services: 999. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• Public buses run on 26 routes with over 600 stops. They're air-conditioned with free Wi-Fi and cheap. You need a rechargeable GO Card from terminals to pay.
• Uber and Careem both work here with upfront pricing. They're more reliable than street taxis, especially at night. If you take a regular taxi, make sure they'll use the meter before you get in.
• Manama is small - you can get anywhere in 15-20 minutes by car. Walking works fine in cooler months around Adliya and Seef, but summer heat makes it impractical. There's no metro yet, though one is supposedly planned.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Manama with local guides and curated experiences.