Almaty, Kazakhstan

• Almaty sits at the base of the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains around 2,300-3,000 feet up, so you get mountain views from most of the southern districts. The city's changed a lot since independence - Soviet canteens are now specialty coffee shops, and you'll find everything from Kazakh teahouses to Italian restaurants along boulevards like Dostyk Avenue. The food scene is a mix of Central Asian, Russian, and international.
• The Russian and Soviet influence is strong here, which means it's more modern than most Central Asian cities. Nobody will stare at you for wearing shorts or tank tops in the city center. Most people speak Russian and Kazakh - English is spreading among under-20s but don't count on it widely. Cafes are set up for laptop workers and eating alone is normal, no one rushes you.
• Daytime feels safe. Nights are different - there have been reports of drink spiking in clubs and some violent thefts near bars. Use Yandex.Taxi instead of unmarked cabs, especially after dark. The app works in English and has more drivers than Uber.
• Public transport is a single metro line plus buses. The metro has security checks at every station, runs clean, but gets packed during rush hour. Most visitors end up in the southern districts - Medeu, Bostandyk, Samal - where restaurants and accommodations are near the mountains.

Russian is what people speak in Almaty, with Kazakh also common. English is growing among young people (under 20) and tourism workers, but isn't widespread. Emergency operators (112) might not speak English, so have your location written in Russian or Kazakh. Tourist centers and upscale hotels usually have some English speakers. Basic Russian phrases make things easier.

• Almaty is cosmopolitan compared to rural Kazakhstan. Dress how you want in the city - shorts, tank tops, summer dresses are fine. At mosques, women need to cover shoulders and head with a scarf, and everyone should skip shorts.
• Russian is the main language, Kazakh is also common. English is growing with under-20s and people in tourism but isn't widespread. Basic Russian helps: 'spasibo' (thanks), 'pozhaluysta' (please), 'izvinite' (excuse me). Emergency operators might not speak English, so have your location written in Russian or Kazakh.
• Respect for elders matters - let them lead conversations, take the best seat, get served first. Use your right hand for eating or giving things. Take off shoes in homes or mosques. If someone invites you home, bring flowers (odd numbers only - 1, 3, 5), chocolates, or tea.
• Cafes are set up for laptop work and long sits. Staff won't rush you. Even-numbered flowers mean funerals, so stick to odd numbers. Don't bring up politics unless someone else does first.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. General Emergency (Rescue): 112. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• Yandex.Taxi is the main ride app - works in English, has more drivers than Uber, and cars show up fast. Short trips cost 500-1500 KZT, airport runs about 2500 KZT. InDriver lets you negotiate prices directly.
• The metro is one line with security checks at every station. Runs 6:20 AM to midnight, costs 120 KZT per ride (220 KZT cash). It covers the center but not the southern residential areas where most accommodations are.
• Buses go everywhere. Get an Onay card for 110 KZT per ride instead of 220 KZT cash. Monthly unlimited is 7500 KZT. Use 2GIS or Bus apps for routes. Buses pack tight during rush hour and pickpockets work the crowded ones.
• Walking works well in areas like Dostyk Avenue, Panfilov Park, and Arbat Street during the day. Southern districts have tree-lined streets with mountain views. Skip unmarked 'gypsy cabs' especially at night - book through apps and share your trip with someone.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Almaty with local guides and curated experiences.