Gothenburg, Sweden

• Gothenburg is Sweden's second city, a port on the west coast with canals, wooden houses and large parks close to the centre. It is compact and easy to figure out, and a woman on her own is rarely noticed or bothered. Eating alone, sitting in a cafe with a book and going to the cinema solo are all ordinary here.
• Daily life revolves around fika, the coffee-and-pastry break, and cafes are the easiest place to settle in: order a cinnamon bun, take a table and stay as long as you like. Nearly everyone speaks good English, so asking for directions or a menu translation is rarely a problem.
• Gang-related violence does exist in some outer suburbs, but it stays in residential areas far from where visitors go. In the central neighborhoods the main risks are petty ones: bicycle theft, pickpocketing around Central Station and busy events, and rowdy crowds near the bars on weekend nights.
• Trams are the backbone of the city and run late, with some night services on weekends. Most sights, including Haga, Avenyn, the Fish Church and Slottsskogen park, are a short tram ride or walk from each other, and a ferry crosses the harbor to the southern archipelago islands.

Swedish is the main language, but almost everyone speaks good English, including staff in cafes, hotels, restaurants and on public transport. The emergency number 112 has English-speaking operators, and the medical advice line 1177 also offers help in English.

• Swedes are polite but reserved. Minimal small talk is not unfriendliness, and a woman on her own will usually be left in peace, which is the norm rather than a snub.
• Nearly everyone pays by card or phone, and many places do not accept cash at all. Keep a contactless card handy and carry only a little cash.
• Queue in order, take a number where there are ticket machines, and keep your voice down on public transport. Tipping is not expected, but rounding up for good service is common.
• Anything stronger than light beer is sold only in Systembolaget, the state-run shops, which close early on Saturday and stay shut on Sunday. Drinks in bars are expensive, so many locals start at home before going out. Weekend nights around Avenyn and Järntorget can be loud and drunken, so leave any situation that feels off.
• Dress is casual and practical. Layers and comfortable shoes matter more than dressing up, and no clothing draws comment.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Emergency Services (Police, Ambulance, Fire): 112. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• Västtrafik trams are the easiest way to get around, with lines fanning out from the central hub at Brunnsparken. Buy tickets in the Västtrafik To Go app or with a contactless bank card at the reader; the driver does not sell tickets for cash. Zones A and B cover the city and the airport bus route.
• Most central neighborhoods are fine to walk in at night, and the tram stops are well lit. Service runs late, and the ticket app shows live departures. Airport coaches such as Flygbussarna connect Landvetter Airport with the city centre in about 30 minutes.
• Taxis are metered but expensive. Book through an app or a company you have called yourself, and agree on the payment method first. Rental e-bikes, city bikes and scooters are common, and the flat terrain makes cycling easy, but lock a bicycle with two locks because theft is frequent.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Gothenburg with local guides and curated experiences.