Santa Marta, Colombia

• Santa Marta was founded in 1525 and is often called Colombia's oldest surviving Spanish colonial city. It sits on the Caribbean coast with the Sierra Nevada rising right behind it. Most people come to use it as a base for Tayrona National Park, the Lost City trek, and the mountain village of Minca. The historic center is small but worth a couple of days on its own.
• The feel is Caribbean: hotter, louder, and slower than Bogotá or Medellín. Eating alone at a cafe or restaurant is completely ordinary here, and nobody pays it any attention. English is common at hostels and tourist restaurants in the historic center and rare almost everywhere else.
• Petty theft and street harassment are the main problems. Violent crime against tourists is uncommon, but opportunistic theft happens often enough that you need to stay alert. Keep your phone out of sight on the street, use InDrive or Uber instead of hailing taxis, and avoid empty streets at night. In the tourist zones during the day, it's manageable.
• Prices are lower than in Cartagena for similar quality. The beach at El Rodadero and the day trip up to Minca give you more variety than you'd expect from one city. There's no single big attraction, so plan around a mix of the old town, the coast, and the mountains.

Spanish is the official language. English is spoken at most hostels, tour operators, and restaurants in the historic center, but very little outside the tourist zone. Download offline Spanish in Google Translate before you arrive. The emergency line (123) has some English-speaking operators. For tourist police, ask your accommodation for the current POLTUR contact, since office locations change through the year.

• Dress on the coast is casual. Shorts, sundresses, and tank tops are normal and won't draw attention, and local women often wear fitted, bright clothes. Cover your shoulders and knees when visiting churches.
• Vendors and men calling 'linda' or 'mami' are common, more so than in inland cities. Walking with purpose and not making eye contact works best. Answering, even to say no, tends to be taken as an invitation, so one flat 'No, gracias' is enough.
• Avoid bringing up narco history, Pablo Escobar, or FARC in casual conversation. Most Colombians find it uncomfortable. Vallenato, the traditional music of this region, is played everywhere, and showing some interest in it goes over well. Lunch (noon to 2pm) is the main meal of the day, and dinner is lighter and usually after 7pm.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Emergency Services: 123. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• InDrive is the most useful app here. You set your own price, can see driver ratings before getting in, and the trip is tracked. It works reliably in Santa Marta. Uber also works but has fewer drivers. Don't hail taxis on the street; if you need one, have your accommodation call it.
• Mini-buses cost around 1,700 COP a ride and are fine during the day, though they get crowded and pickpocketing happens on busy routes. The bus from the historic center to El Rodadero runs often and costs around 1,800 COP.
• For Minca, take a colectivo from Calle 11 near the market. They leave when full, cost around 10,000 COP, and take about 45 minutes. For Taganga, take a mini-bus from Carrera 1c near the beachfront or a taxi for about 12,000 COP. Neither Minca nor Taganga has ATMs, so bring cash.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Santa Marta with local guides and curated experiences.