Lahore, Pakistan

• Lahore has about 11 million people and mixes centuries-old Mughal architecture with modern development. Some neighborhoods like Gulberg and DHA feel cosmopolitan - you'll see women in cafes working on laptops. Other parts, especially the Old City, are much more conservative with traditional markets and strict dress expectations.
• Upscale areas have cafe culture where eating alone is normal, particularly on MM Alam Road in Gulberg. English works in tourist spots and nicer restaurants, but you'll need basic Urdu phrases elsewhere. The city's reputation for danger is outdated - recent crime statistics show it's safer than many Western cities, though this varies significantly by neighborhood.
• Uber and Careem are reliable and the best transport option. They work the same as anywhere else with GPS tracking. Tourist Police exist but aren't everywhere. Petty theft happens in crowded markets - keep your phone in your bag and leave expensive jewelry at home.
• Wealthier areas like Gulberg, DHA, and Cantt have decent street lighting and security. You can walk around in the evening, though like anywhere, taking a car after 9-10pm makes sense. The Orange Line Metro is the city's first driverless train system. Dress code: cover your shoulders and knees everywhere. In upscale spots you can wear Western clothes without issue, but shorts or tank tops will get stares anywhere.

Urdu is the main language with Punjabi spoken locally. English works in upscale areas like Gulberg, DHA, and major hotels. Tourist Police (1422) can help. Emergency services (15) may have limited English. Ride-hailing apps work in English.

• Cover your knees and shoulders at minimum. In upscale areas, local women wear jeans and long sleeves. Shorts or tank tops will get you stared at anywhere. Bring a dupatta (scarf) for mosques - women need to cover their heads inside.
• English is limited outside hotels and nice restaurants in Gulberg and DHA. Learn a few Urdu phrases: 'Shukriya' (thank you), 'Aap kaisay hain?' (how are you), 'Kitna?' (how much). Keep Google Translate handy. Menus in tourist areas are often in English.
• This is a conservative Muslim country. During Ramadan, restaurants have different hours and eating in public during daylight is frowned upon. Friday midday prayers create crowds in some areas. Don't bring up politics, religion, or India-Pakistan issues unless someone else does first. People are hospitable but conservative about men and women interacting.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Police Emergency: 15. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• Use Uber or Careem. Both work 24/7, have GPS tracking you can share, and cost reasonable amounts. Careem launched first but both are reliable. This beats negotiating with rickshaw drivers.
• The Orange Line Metro runs 27 kilometers with air-conditioned cars and women's sections. It's Pakistan's first driverless train. Gets crowded during rush hour but works fine otherwise. The Metro Bus also has women-only seating.
• Auto rickshaws are cheap but you have to negotiate the price before getting in. They're less comfortable and less safe than apps, especially at night. You can walk around Gulberg and DHA during the day, but take a car after dark even in those areas.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Lahore with local guides and curated experiences.