Zagreb, Croatia

• Zagreb is Croatia's capital and a small, walkable city with Austro-Hungarian buildings, tree-lined squares and a strong cafe habit. The medieval Upper Town sits on a hill above the flat, grid-like Lower Town, and most sights are within a 20-minute walk of the main square, Ban Jelačić Square.
• It is one of the safer capitals in Europe. Violent crime against visitors is rare, and a woman walking alone in the centre in the evening won't stand out. The usual risks apply: some pickpocketing in crowds and on trams, and parks and the area around the train station feel empty after dark.
• Locals spend hours over a single coffee, so sitting alone with a book or laptop on a terrace draws no attention. On Saturday mornings the Lower Town terraces fill up for the špica, the weekly coffee-and-socialising ritual, which is an easy way to see how the city works. Younger people and anyone working in tourism usually speak English.
• Trams cover the whole city and run late, the centre is easy on foot, and ride-hailing apps are common and cheap. Zagreb also works as a base for day trips to Plitvice, Samobor and the Zagorje castles.

Croatian is the main language. Younger people and staff in hotels, restaurants and tourist areas generally speak English, and German and Italian are also common. Operators at 112 can handle calls in English.

• People dress casually but with some care. Shorts and summer dresses are fine anywhere in the city. Cover shoulders and knees when entering churches such as the Cathedral and St. Mark's.
• A few words go a long way: dobar dan (good day), hvala (thank you), molim (please) and izvolite (here you are). Staff often switch to English, but they notice the effort.
• Tipping isn't required, but rounding up or leaving around 10% in restaurants is normal. Many cafes and restaurants expect you to pay at the table, not at the counter.
• Most shops close early on Saturday afternoon and stay closed on Sunday, apart from supermarkets with shorter hours and some central shops. Plan Sunday around museums, parks and cafes.
• Smoking is common on cafe terraces, and people make one coffee last a long time. Nobody will hurry you off your table.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Emergency Services (police, ambulance, fire): 112. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• The blue trams are the best way to cover longer distances. They run often during the day, and a reduced night network serves the main lines after midnight. Buy tickets from the driver, a kiosk or the ZET app, and validate paper tickets on board. Crowded central lines are where bags get snatched, so keep yours closed and in front of you.
• Bolt and Uber work well and are usually cheaper than street taxis. The app shows the driver and plate, which helps late at night. If you take a regular taxi, book by phone or app instead of flagging one down, and agree on the fare or check the meter before you set off.
• The centre is flat and compact, so walking is usually quickest. The funicular connects the Lower Town to the Upper Town in about a minute, and the Strossmayer promenade and Tomićeva street are busy walking routes. From the airport, a shuttle bus runs to the main bus station, and a taxi or ride-hail to the centre takes about 20-30 minutes.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, consider renting a car.

Explore Zagreb with local guides and curated experiences.