Panaji, India

• Panaji (also called Panjim) is Goa's small state capital on the Mandovi River. The Portuguese colonial buildings in the Fontainhas quarter look different from the rest of India - narrow streets, pastel-colored houses, old churches. The waterfront gets busy in the evenings with people watching the sunset.
• Goa is more relaxed than most of India. Women working alone in cafes is normal here, and you'll see it all the time in the tourist areas. English works in restaurants and hotels, though you'll still need some Hindi or Konkani in local shops and with taxi drivers.
• The Tourist Police (155260) have English speakers and patrol the main tourist zones. Crime is lower than in bigger Indian cities, but watch your stuff in crowded markets. Pickpocketing happens on beaches too.
• Uber and Ola don't work here - you'll use GoaMiles (the government taxi app) or regular buses. The Kadamba buses run until around 7 PM, then you're looking at taxis. Some neighborhoods like Fontainhas are fine for evening walks, but don't go to beaches after dark.

English works in tourist areas, restaurants, and hotels. Konkani is the local language and Hindi is common too. Tourist Police (155260) speak English, and emergency services (112) have some English support. Compared to the rest of India, Goa is easier if you only speak English.

• Cover shoulders and knees when you're not at the beach - especially in churches, temples, and residential areas. Goa is more relaxed than the rest of India, but bikinis still get stares outside beach zones. Just change into regular clothes when you leave.
• Most restaurant and shop staff in tourist areas speak English. Konkani is the local language and Hindi also works. Learning 'namaste' (hello), 'dhanyavaad' (thank you), and 'kripya' (please) helps with taxi drivers and local shops.
• Eating alone in cafes is common, especially in Fontainhas and on 18th June Road. Lots of people sit with laptops for hours. Standard tip is 10% at restaurants. Watch your drinks at bars and don't accept drinks from people you don't know.
• Ask before taking photos of people, especially women. Some churches and temples don't allow cameras at all. The pace here is slow - 'sussegado' is the local term for the laid-back attitude. Service takes longer than in bigger cities.

The first hour after landing is when you're tired, carrying everything, and easiest to take advantage of. Three things to sort before you fly:

• Your ride from the airport. A driver who meets you in arrivals, at a price fixed before you fly — no haggling at the taxi rank.

  Book an airport pickup

• Data the moment you land. Maps, ride apps and a way to call for help as soon as you switch your phone on. An eSIM installs at home.

  Get a good eSIM

• The emergency number. Emergency (All Services): 112. Save it in your phone, not just on this page.

  All emergency contacts

• GoaMiles is the main taxi app here - Uber and Ola don't work in Goa. In peak season the wait times get long, so book early if you can. Yellow-black taxis wait at main spots, but you need to negotiate the price before you get in.
• Local buses (Kadamba) run about 220 routes but most stop around 7 PM. Fares are cheap - ₹10-50 per ride. The R1 route goes between Panaji and Dona Paula from 7:30 AM to 7:45 PM.
• Many people rent scooters to get around on their own schedule. BLive has bike taxis if you don't want to drive yourself. The center (Fontainhas, the promenade) is walkable during the day.
• If you're planning day trips outside the city, book a private car with a driver rather than driving yourself.

Explore Panaji with local guides and curated experiences.